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The north facing north-east coast has many attractive and secluded beaches, often sheltered from the Atlantic by rocks and islets - Hodges Bay, Grand Babtiste Bay and Calibishie are favourites. Calibishi is a small and very pleasant village with a handful of shops, bars and restaurants. From the ridgetop road through and beyond the village of Bense, a trail leads down to the Hampstead River. After crossing the first part of the river, follow the second to where a deep diving pool can be found below a small waterfall.
New Lake, Carholm In November 1997, Dominica experienced several weeks of prolonged heavy rain which precipitated a massive landslide in the interior. This formed three dams blocking a northern tributary of the Layou River. The lower dam burst after about a week of continued heavy rain, the second burst a few days later. These flooded the Layou River, depositing huge amounts of tarish and sand, temporarily raising the level of the river bed by up to 30 feet in places. The rear dam did not burst and has consolidated, leaving a new lake with a much largerv surface area than either the Freshwater or Boeri Lakes and reaching a maximum depth of 140 feet. This lake may be viewed from the end of the road at the edge of the escarpment left by the landslide, reached via a feeder road just east of the Layou River Hotel. Though officially named the Mathia Dam, the local landowner has christened this area 'Miracle Valley'. The rear shore of the lake by be reached via a hiking trail from the Cuba Road which loops up into the hills from Mero to Salisbury on the mid west coast.
The Layou River is the island's longest, originating on the south-east slopes of Morne Diablotin, flowing first in a south easterly direction then, from the village of Belles, westwards to flow ultimately into the Caribbean Sea. Approx. 3 miles from its estuary on the mid-west coast, by the first road bridge, a short trail leads to a shaded beach on its south bank, where a long stretch of river is slow and deep enough to enjoy a swim and where, on the far bank, a small pool has been built around a hotspring. Another great picnic spot.
Wild Life The Agouti is a tailless forest rodent with dark fur and pink ears, not unlike a tallish guineapig. The Manicou is a species of opossum - it has a tail, lives mostly in the trees and is largely nocturnal. These are believed to have been introduced by the early Amerindian settlers from the Orinoco delta region of South America, as a source of food. Wild boar were also introduced into the forests for hunting, but are seldom seen. The only indigenous mammal to Dominica is the bat, of which there are several varieties, commonly seen in numbers at dusk - favourite food, mosquitos. Mountain Chicken or Crapaud is a very large smooth skinned frog native to Dominica and Monserrat - colour varies from brown to grey, depending on local habitat. The male is identified by a short black thumb claw, which aids holding on whilst mating. It used to be abundant also in the neighbouring French islands of Martinique and Guadeloupe but, regarded as a delicacy, it has in recent years been hunted to extinction. There are also three varieties of tiny tree frog.
Vivid green Iguanas are prevalent in coastal areas, spending most of their time in trees, where they often go unnoticed due to their excellent camouflage. The predominant old males turn grey and black and grow a frill under their chin. Most commonly seen throughout the island are tree lizards, local name zandoli. They have the ability to lighten or darken their colour (though not rapidly) to suit their surroundings. The males are territorial and swing out a bright orange neck fan to intimidate rivals. The nocturnal gecko is also commonly seen, often around patio lights, which attract a good meal of insects. Ground lizards, local name abalo, can grow almost as large as iguanas. They are carnivors and scavengers, common but shy, and can run exceedingly fast. Males are tinged with blue, whilst females are brown with two yellow stripes down their back.
As well as the tiny legged skink, there are several varieties of grass snake and the larger boa, which usually keeps well hidden in the forest and scrubland - none are poisonous. Soon to come - flora and fauna pages.
19. Eating local food Fresh fish may be obtained locally from many of the coastal villages. A conche being blown can usually be heard throughout the vicinity, indicating when fish are available for sale from the local fishermen. Red Snapper, Balou, Dorade and Tuna are commonly available. Crabs, crayfish and shrimps can be found in the rivers and streams. Fresh fruit and vegetables are of amazing quality and succulence; bananas, limes, grapefruit, oranges, pawpaw, mangoes, avocado pears, starfruit (carambola), water melon, pineapple, guava, passion fruit, coconuts, soursop, sugar apples, custard apples, golden apples (pome-cite), easter apples, mammee apples - often referred to as apricot, local cherries, tamarind, yellow goosberries, cocoa etc. Vegetables include green bananas, plantains, cristophene, green pawpaw, pumpkin, bredfruit, breadnuts, cucumber, spinach, zucchini, celery and very full flavoured tomatoes. Root vegetables include beetroot, dasheen, tania, yam and several variety of sweet potato. The main outlet is Roseau's market place, located at the Riverside, close to the Bayfront. Dasheen and Tania bear large 'elephant ear' leaves - from the young tender shoots is made thick, green Calaloo soup, a local delicacy. Floral Gardens Hotel, in the north east, grow sufficient Hibiscus to make a refreshing and delicately flavoured cold drink from the red flower petals, served daily in their riverside restaurant.
Activities For the hyperactive, bicycles and kayaks can be hired by the hour, dayor half day at Scotts Head and Soufriere. Snorkelling gear may also be hired.
Sports fishing - charter a boat (half day US$350, full day US$600)
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